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McHenry Hohnen Reviewed
04 November 2022The Singapour – October 2022
McHenry Hohnen had a comprehensive review from Richard Hemming MW in his most recent ‘Singapour’ of reviews.
We were happy to see McHenry Hohnen’s quality coming through from these pioneering biodynamic wines in Margaret River.
The full list below:
McHenry Hohnen, Laterite Hills Chardonnay 2020 Margaret River
Blend of Hazel, Burnside and Calgardup vineyards.
Lovely clean fruit with bright acid, medium body, very classic styling with great natural balance with an emphasis on acidic zest. Refined, savoury, finishing with a Chablis-esque shellfish length.
Drink 2022 – 2025
16.5
McHenry Hohnen, Hazel's Vineyard Chardonnay 2020 Margaret River
Biodynamic certified. Planted 2001.
Richer than their Laterite Hills blend, but with a similar oyster-shell character on the finish. Lovely elegant structure with grapefruit and crisp green apple. Finishes with a bit of toffee and caramel on the finish. (RH)
Drink 2022 – 2027
17
McHenry Hohnen, Calgardup Brook Chardonnay 2020 Margaret River
Planted 1995.
A bit more closed than their Hazel on the nose. More textural and rich on the palate, with lower acid and fleshier mouthfeel. More Beaune than Chablis, perhaps – but still with well-defined acidic line to give structure, and plenty of persistence. (RH)
Drink 2022 – 2032
17 +
McHenry Hohnen, Burnside Vineyard Chardonnay 2020 Margaret River
Planted 1980.
Richer again than their Calgardup, with flesh and juice and chewiness. Lovely oatmeal and lemon-juice character with bright acid and full body. Wonderful tang and mineral note. Sophisticated and expressive, with all the clarity of New World Chardonnay but none of the excess bulk. (RH)
Drink 2022 – 2032
17.5
McHenry Hohnen, Hazel's Vineyard Chardonnay 2019 Margaret River
More apricot and peach than their 2020, with flesh and aromatic oak spice lending complexity. Has a similar, albeit less overt, mineral quality and loads of persistence. Very smart. (RH)
Drink 2021 – 2024
17
McHenry Hohnen, BDX 2020 Margaret River
Sweet oak on the nose, powerful black fruit, plentiful grip with dark, savoury fruit intensity. Savoury spice adds interest to the finish. Lingering fruit to offset the oaky start. (RH)
Drink 2020 – 2024
16.5
McHenry Hohnen Grenache/Syrah/Mataro 2019 Margaret River
Less well defined than their Syrah, more tannic – thanks to the Mataro perhaps? Nice to have something with a gruffness to it. Red fruit from the Grenache, but not confected – this is restrained and savoury. (RH)
Drink 2021 – 2026
17
McHenry Hohnen, Hazel's Vineyard Syrah 2018 Margaret River
Excellent fragrance, such purity of fruit! Leathery, stemmy notes with the rhubarb and redcurrant character that I love so much in Syrah. This is just excellent – really lifted and perfumed with excellent length and balance. Hardly puts a foot wrong. There's a lovely savoury green-olive character. (RH)
Drink 2020 – 2030
18
McHenry Hohnen, Rolling Stone 2017 Margaret River
Fruit cake, cassis and red cherry, grippy and grainy. Intense and fruit-driven – a clenched fist of fruit. Enjoyable in a forthright and chewy way. (RH)
Drink 2020 – 2032
16 +
McHenry Hohnen, Rolling Stone 2016 Margaret River
More closed than their 2017, but with the same firm tannic handshake. Chewy and grippy. Doesn't go much beyond fruit just yet, but has all the potential packed in. (RH)
Drink 2021 – 2026
16.5
McHenry Hohnen, Rolling Stone 2015 Margaret River
Greater fruit definition than their 2016 and 2017 – plum, blackcurrant as well as tobacco and leather. Tight-knit but with an opening complexity on the palate and finish. Long too – very promising to improve over the next decade. (RH)
Drink 2020 – 2035
17 +
McHenry Hohnen, Hazel's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Margaret River
Dried fruit, plenty of firm tannins and finishing with a long, aniseed and medicinal finish. The structure is evolving more slowly than the fruit, for me – enjoyable to drink now, but perhaps not worth keeping. (RH)
Drink 2016 – 2022
16.5 –